Swimming with Sea Lions is bettter than Swimming with Dolpins
After a trip to the Galapagos Islands, with the help of freediver Tanya Streeter, I explain what everyone should have already known: swimming with sea lions is much better than swimming with dophins.
Marshalled by our guide, the six of us flipper-kicked cautiously towards the craggy shore of North Seymour, central Galapagos Islands. Soon the younger sea lions spotted us, flopped themselves up into walking position, waddled excitedly down the rocks, and plopped into the sea. Half an hour later, my usually cynical friend Charlie surfaced after a couple of underwater summersaults in unison with two sea lion pups, and nicely summed up swimming with sea lions: “This”, he said, “Is the best thing I’ve ever done.”
We were sailing for 10 days around the Galapagos Islands on a friend’s father’s whopping yacht (yes, lucky us). Much as we appreciated the blue-footed boobies, iguanas, and albatrosses, we all fell for the sea lions like pre-teen girls fall for ponies.
On that first encounter, there were 12 or so chubby little pinnipeds (‘pinniped’ is the group name for seals, sea lions and walruses). Initially, they bundled into a tumbling sub-surface maul about 10 feet way, trying to peer at us and hide behind each another at the same time. Suddenly, one shot at us like a canon-fired blimp, span at the last second, and rocketed underneath.
Then they were all around, and they wanted to play. They dived down when we dived down, copying every twist, turn and roll. They zipped, zoomed and leapt about our overjoyed little group. They swam next to us, fascinated eyes staring straight into ours, then flicked their tails and shot off like jet-powered aqua-Labradors after a stick. If we stayed still, then span round, we’d always find two or three sea lions, heads out of the water, creeping up behind us, Grandmother’s Footsteps style. Caught, they’d scatter at extraordinary speed, then screech round, and play the dart-up-and-miss game again.
That night, as sea lions chased flying fish around the boat (and turtles swam underneath, plus sharks, and schools of golden ray... you really must go to the Galapagos Islands), we wondered why swimming with dolphins always topped ‘Things to do before you die’ lists. How could dolphins, we asked, be half as fun as sea lions? Or a quarter as cute? None of us had swum with dolphins though. I’d tried once in Greece, but the dolphins had swum away.
So, on return I contacted Tanya Streeter, world champion freediver, television presenter and expert at interacting with marine life (right). She’s swum with more dolphins and sea lions than you can shake a snorkel at. I asked her which was better.
“First thing,” Tanya explained, “is that you must only swim with animals in the wild. Keeping any animal in captivity to swim with humans is cruel.
“Given that, dolphins are much more difficult to swim with, because they’re not that interested in humans. People have a distorted view of dolphins. When they swim at you with their mouth open, people think they’re smiling. Actually they’re saying ‘get out of my way, or I’m going to bite you, and these are the teeth I’m going to do it with.’
“I have had wonderful encounters with dolphins, but they’re much less curious and playful than sea lions, and you’re always aware that they’re big, aggressive animals. To keep dolphins interested you have to dive deep and swim fast, which most people can’t do. Sea lions, though, are like boisterous puppies. They’ll shy away at first, but they can’t resist the temptation to check you out. They just seem to be going at it the whole time – pulling each others’ fins, blowing at each other - and they’ll involve you if you’re in the water. They’ll even bring you presents: an adolescent sea lion once brought me a beautiful blue starfish.
“On balance, I’d rather be with sea lions any time.”
So there we are: conclusive proof that swimming with sea lions is better than swimming with dolphins.
Luckily, for those without yacht-bearing friends or careers in nature telly, playful pinnipeds can be found the world over (see box). You’ll find them in North and South American, Africa, Australia and... Great Britain.
In the UK we have grey seals and the paradoxically less numerous common seals. Seals differ from Sea lions by having no ear-flaps, and, with less land-adapted fins, they are even more inept ashore. According to Clive Pearson, who runs seal swimming trips to Lundy island (see box), British seals are just as inquisitive as their Galapagan cousins, if a little less manic. He also advises some caution; grey seals are Britain’s largest carnivore, after all...
So is it dangerous? Back in the Galapagos Islands, we felt completely safe. From previous research, I knew of only one pinniped to human killing; an Antarctic leopard seal killed a researcher in 2003. But we were miles from the Antarctic. Moreover, our guide hadn’t been bitten in ten years, she said it was ok, and got in the water too, so that was enough for us.
So, with the caveat that you must always go with someone who knows what they’re doing, you should take a plunge with pinnipeds as soon as you can. Leave the dolphins to the masses. The sophisticated adventurer knows that swimming with seals or sea lions is undoubtedly, within the bounds of common moral codes, the most fun you can have with a wild animal.
Tanya Streeter is appearing on BBC2 in Wild Tribe: Reef Gypsies on Oct 28th, Shark Therapy 1 on Nov 4th and Shark Therapy 2 on Nov 11th.
Where to swim with seals and sea lions
The Galapagos Islands.
Angus Watson’s guide was the excellent Patricia Stuki (+593 9 9266147, pat_stucki@hotmail.com). He flew with Trailfinders (0845 050 8571, www.trailfinders.com) to Guayaquil, Ecuador from London (from £695). Flights from Guayaquil to Baltra (Galapagos) can be booked from the UK (www.tame.com.ec, around £200), but must be paid for in person in Ecuador a few days before flying. They can also be arranged as part of a tour. Original Travel (+44 (0)20 7978 7333, www.originaltravel.co.uk) offers all-in Galapagos tours from £2,700
Australia.
Kangaroo Island, near Adelaide has friendly seals and sea lions. Trips are run by local operators. Fly to Adelaide with Trailfinders from £685
South Africa.
Hout Bay, 20 minutes drive from central Cape Town, has a playful colony of cape fur seals, according to Francois Hugo of Seal Alert (www.sealalert.org). Snorkel and dive trips can be arranged with Pisces Divers (+27 21 7827205, www.piscesdivers.co.za)
Fly to Cape Town with Trailfinders from £529
Mexico.
The sea lions in the sea of Cortez, Baja California, are very similar to Galapagos sea lions. Trips are run by local operators . Fly to Tijuana with Trailfinders from £735 or San Deigo from £259
UK – Devon
Clive Pearson’s Clovelly Charters runs swimming and diving with seals trips to Lundy island (07774 190359, www.clovelly-charters.ukf.net). “We don’t encourage it, but they love to have their tummies tickled”, Says Clive
UK – Scilly Isles
Spend five days on the Scilly Isles with Swimtrek (020 8696 6220, www.swimtrek.com) from £645, not including transfers. “Guests get so entranced by the seals we have to pull them out of the water.” Says organiser John Coningham-Rolls.
Staying dry
See seals and sea lions without getting wet at the National Seal Sanctuaries in Gweek, Cornwall and Oban, Argyll (01326 221361, www.sealsanctuary.co.uk)
Copyright The Times Limited 2007 / Copyright on pictures Angus Watson 2007 (Except Tanya pic = James Honeyborne [james.honeyborne@gmail.com])
